Speaker repair tips, tricks and other cool things to help you with speaker refoaming, grill cloth replacement, reconing, wiring L-pads, diaphragm replacement, crossovers, and other speaker repair and service information.
How to measure your speaker for purchasing a repair kit:
Measure the outside of the SPEAKER FRAME to determine the overall speaker size for the kit you need.
Measure the SPEAKER CONE to compare against the size charts on our product pages
Foam Edge Angle versus Flat attach:
You may use the following diagrams to determine which style of foam edge kit you need depending on the style of cone. Each product page includes a size chart with the measurements shown below.
C=Roll ID (Cone Diameter)
Speaker cross section showing all of the parts of a typical loudspeaker:
How to remove the front baffle on Optimus Pro LX5, LX55, CS5, Pro 77, RCA and others with Linaeum Ribbon Tweeters:
Remove the front grill. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, carefully remove the rubber grommets that secure the grill pegs in place. Behind these grommets you will see the Phillips head screws that secure the two halves of the cabinet together.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the screws that secure the front baffle to the rear cabinet assembly. Dis-assemble the front baffle from the rear cabinet. Be careful regarding the wires running from the crossover to the woofer and Linaeum ribbon tweeter.
You can now easily remove the woofer from behind the baffle to replace the speaker foam surrounds.
Use the following diagram to wire L-pads for control of midrange or high frequency drivers. The terminals on the L-pad are numbered 1, 2, and 3. When replacing old Acoustic Reseach L-pads, the negative is connected to the terminal at the middle of the top of the original L-pad. Attach the negative wires to the # 1 terminal of the new L-pad.
How to remove the Toyota Avalon rear deck subwoofer model 86160-AC180:
Climb into the back seat. The speaker cover, which also houses the stop light assembly, is held in place with a couple of pop-in clips near the front of the cover. Using your fingers lift up firmly on the forward most portion of speaker cover enclosure, right where it touches the rear deck. The cover/enclosure should lift up about an inch as the pop-in clips come loose. If you canít get it with your fingers, carefully use a flathead screwdriver to pry it up. Now carefully pull the cover forward, towards the front of the car, about an inch. This should free the fingers that hold the rear of the cover in place. Reach back and disconnect the stop light wiring harness plug. You have to press on the center of the plug to release the lock as you pull it out of the socket. The cover should now lift away easily.
You can now see the woofer/speaker mounted in a black plastic frame held to the rear deck using 4 x 10mm bolts. DO NOT remove the speaker from the black plastic frame. Remove the speaker and the black plastic frame together. Using a 10mm deep well socket remove the 4 bolts holding the speaker frame in place. Now comes the slightly difficult part. The sides of the plastic speaker frame are under the fiberboard rear deck. You have to push the speaker frame to one side about an inch, further up under the rear deck fiberboard panel, so the other side of the speaker frame will lift up clear of the deck panel. It takes some doing. Lift the panel and push the speaker at the same time, kind of working it back and forth to get it to move. Once you get one side free and clear, the other side comes out pretty easily. If you have a helper, they can push the subwoofer up from inside the trunk. The speaker wire is still connected. Reach down and unplug the speaker using the same method. The speaker and frame will now lift clear.
You can use the radio while the woofer is removed. Change the fader all the way to the front speakers.
Ship the entire assembly to us for repair. Please DO NOT remove the speaker from the black plastic frame!